Thursday, July 29, 2010

Devra First's First Four-Star Review Goes to Menton

Globe food critic Devra First gave her first ever four star review to Barbara Lynch's Menton:

They are giddy. Drunk on knowledge. High on the conceit of what they are trying to do. Finest dining, here in Fort Point — modern yet lavish, refined and formal and beyond expensive. You are in their sights, and Menton’s minions are coming for you. From the right! A woman armed with more information about the wine she will pour than anyone would ever need to know. She is grinning. She is talking perfume and acid and soil and philosophy. She is pouring liquid, golden, into your glass....

When the girl from Southie walks into this restaurant in her old backyard and thinks, “I made this come true,’’ it must feel damn good.

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